Your bio refers to you as a โcooking extremist.โ Can you explain what that means?
For me, being a cooking extremist means pushing boundaries with food. Itโs not just about cooking fillet or steak but making the simplest ingredients shine. In our restaurant, we champion a philosophy of whole-animal cooking. When you dine with us, youโll encounter dishes made from animals such as donkey, horse, lamb, rooster, or rabbitโnothing is off-limits. We believe that if an animal is raised and slaughtered, it deserves the highest level of respect, which means we use every part. We use everything, including the brain and heart. Itโs about elevating simple dishes into something exceptional.
This holistic approach isn’t just a culinary choice; itโs an ethical statement. It reflects the fundamental belief that when we consume meat, we need to acknowledge that an animalโs life has ended for our nourishment.
What inspired you to use all parts of the animal in your cooking?
Thereโs a common misconception that the closer you cook to vegan principles, the more sustainable or ethical your kitchen becomes. I like to challenge that ideaโthereโs no chef who cooks as close to a vegan ideal as I do. By that, I mean we only work with animals that were well-cared for and happy during their lifetime, and we honor them by ensuring nothing goes to waste. Whether itโs venison or snails, we use every edible part to its fullest potential.
If you kill an animal, you must eat everything from itโnot just the fillet or leg. It’s a matter of respect. Every part can be delicious, and itโs important to make use of it all.
How do you convince guests to try unconventional ingredients like offal?
It took time to build trust, but now people come to our restaurant for these experiences. Itโs like going to a sushi restaurant for sushiโyou come to us knowing that youโll be introduced to every part of the animal.
Do you see your cuisine as typically Austrian?
Yes, I think it reflects Austriaโs culinary heritage. Historically, Austrians used every part of the animal. Our cuisine has influences from the Hungarian Empire as well, which makes it unique to the region.
Can you describe the dining experience at your restaurant?
Itโs located in a small village, and we offer both indoor and outdoor seating in a charming old Austrian house. In winter, itโs cozy indoors, and in summer, guests enjoy sitting outside. The vibe is relaxed, and we sometimes host events like pig-cutting ceremonies.
How far in advance do guests need to make reservations?
In the summer, weโre often fully booked, so reservations are recommended several weeks in advance. In winter, itโs easier to find a table, especially for lunch.
What advice would you give to chefs interested in cooking with unconventional ingredients?
Itโs about persistence and passion. It takes time to convince people to try these dishes, but if you believe in what youโre doing, theyโll follow. I wasnโt the first to cook this way, but itโs become an essential part of my philosophy.
Can you recommend wine pairings for your dishes?
At our restaurant, we offer both alcoholic and non-alcoholic pairings. I also have a small private wine cellar with 6,000 to 7,000 bottles. Each dish calls for a different wineโred or white, depending on the flavors we want to highlight.
A cooking extremist at heart, Chef Max Stiegl first gained acclaim at 19 when he was the youngest chef of all time to be awarded a Michelin star.โฏAt his restaurant Gut Purbach, Chef Max is renowned for his dedication to Slow Food principles, emphasizing local, seasonal ingredients and traditional cooking methods. His menu features “variety meats” (offal) delicacies, produce from Burgenland, including fish from Lake Neusiedl, game from Leithaberg, and herbs from his garden. Gourmets worldwide visit Gut Purbach for its multi-course offal menus.
Chef Maxโs commitment to sustainability is highlighted in his annual “Sautanz,” a winter festival where every part of a pig is used. When not in his kitchen or visiting local producers, he appears on cooking shows, sharing his passion for food. For more information, visit www.stieglmax.atย